THE NORDIC WAVES-SCANDINAVIAN CHEFS: FREDRIK ANDERSSON
(SWEDISH) Den nordiska vågen” kallas den grupp kockar från Skandinavien, framförallt från Sverige, Danmark och Norge, som under de senaste åren förknippats med det nya nordiska köket. Åtta ledande kockar kommer härmed att presenteras i en serie på tre delar.
The Nordic Waves is the term I used to describe this group of chefs from all of Scandinavia, mainly from Sweden, Denmark and Norway. These chefs known for 3-4 years at international level have particularly been at the forefront over the past two years due to the recognition of New Nordic Cuisine and the emphasis on a cuisine close to nature and the local products. All this, without relying on the status attained by the restaurant Noma and Chef René Redzepi. But beyond fashions and trends of the moment, I discovered a high concentration of young chefs, innovative, creative, open to the world and all dedicated to their garden! To present the eight (8) chefs selected I decided to divide them into three little groups, not by country but by affinity.
This third block of Scandinavian chefs presents two young chefs that are very original, creative and totally dedicated at their cuisine: Thomas Herman (Herman) and Fredrik Andersson (Mistral).
Emotions, respect for nature and purity are synonymous with the cuisine of the Chef Andersson. Whether in the garden or in nature, he works with the organics and renewable resources to highlight the simplicity and purity of flavors. That’s sound simple but it is complex because it is a work of artists. Sincerely, it’s the cuisine at its best!
Q+A WITH FREDRIK ANDERSSON (www.mistral.nu ):
1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your cuisine and what is it main characteristics?
FAndersson- For me cooking is an emotional experience – I want to feel and see beyond what is visual to the eye. I try to do this through purification and by simplifying – to reach a sort of natural complexity. Sustainability is also very important – so we only use biodynamic or organic produce (mainly from two farms witch we have been working with for many years).
2-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular foods (or products) that you often use in your recipes?
FAndersson- The vegetables of each season are the base.
3-(Scoffier) Do you have a mentor (chefs or anybody else) that inspires you in your cuisine?
FAndersson- I am very inspired by people who have found their place – and work with an intense intuition and their work truly express their spirit. The list can be made long…. Chefs who are important to me included Michel Bras, Oliver Roellinger, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Karin Franzon, Tomas Drejing, Alain Passard, Pierre Gagnaire etc.
4-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular flavour or taste from your childhood that is again memorable?
FAndersson- I remember the vegetables my father grew in his spare time and also the wild berries he picked. Both my grandmothers were great old school cooks. For me, flavour has always been my main connection to memories and emotion. I remember in flavour.
5-(Scoffier) How you construct your menu (your inspiration)? And what is the difference between Large, Small and Mini Menu?
FAndersson- We look at what is in season and create 8-12 dishes from these produces. Every day we prepare nine – our guest can either have 4 plates (mini), 7 plates (small) or 9 plates (large).
6-(Scoffier) I know that the chef Pascal Barbot (L’Astrance) take a lot of time choosing and picking his produces at the market. Do you spend as much of time to choose and pick your produces?
FAndersson- We have created our own infrastructure, to be able to get the produce we want. It has taken many years and it is a work- in-progress. We also spend a lot of time (1-3 hours) every day in season (April-December) in the forest picking herbs, sprouts, berries and mushrooms.
7-(Scoffier) Do you are part of the New Nordic Cuisine manifesto initiated by Claus Meyer and Rene Redzepi (Noma). If yes, are you as strict (just local products) that René Redzepi? Example: no olive’s oil etc.
FAndersson- No. But The work of René is very interesting.
8-(Scoffier) I look at the photography of your dishes and you have a really particular aesthetics, it’s important for you and it’s influenced by the arts, nature, others?
FAndersson- I want to express that the same extreme beauty can be found in exactly everything, if only you give it your full attention and try to feel more than see. Natural shapes and forms interest me. Irregularity and the notion that everything is unique and there for valuable.
9-(Scoffier) Do you use some elements from molecular gastronomy or new technology in your cooking techniques? If yes, which?
FAndersson- We use some modern equipment such as roner, pacojet and sous-vide-machine.
10-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (signature or important dish) that is characterized the cuisine of Fredrik Andersson and Mistral?
FAndersson- See the recipe: Dried Potatoes with lavender and brown butter, creamy farmhouse egg and bleak roe in yoghurt.
11-(Scoffier) What is your goal (ambitions) as a chef? Do you think to write a book, a television show, other?
FAndersson- To become more and more in touch with my intuition and in that way be able to create a truly personal cuisine.
RECIPE: Dried Potatoes with Lavender and Brown Butter, Creamy Farmhouse Egg and Bleak Roe in Yoghurt
PROGRESSION RECIPE
1. Cook the potatoes in salted water at 85 °C until still a little firm.
2. Chill. Cut into pieces and dry at 42 °C (in a dehydrator) until semi dry.
3. Marinate the potatoes in yoghurt (sous-vide) for at least 3 weeks.
4. Slowly brown the potatoes in salted butter and lavender. Deglaze with a little yoghurt and allow to slowly caramelize (this process should take at least 30 minutes).
5. Serve with an egg yolk cooked at 63 °C for 3 hours and a sauce of bleak roe and yoghurt.
FURTHER INFORMATION:
-Restaurant Mistral/Chef Fredrik Andersson
Sockenvägen 529,
Enskededalen, Stockholm (Sweden)
-Review :
1. Senses Corner Blog, Menu & Photos, June 2009,
3. Edible Selby, The Wild Ones (Photo + Audio), August 2011
Tous droits réservés. Copyright Scoffier © 2008-2010
I love potato dishes. Thanks for the recipe.