THE GAME-BRITISH & SCOTTISH CHEFS: JAMES KNAPPETT
The Brits have been preparing for some time the after Marco Pierre White cuisine. Not that there is a british style but we can certainly say that the emerging chefs are pro-locavore and that they are sourcing the best products of the island of Albion. In the very cosmopolitan London, the influences of young chefs are many, which give them a unique culinary personality.
To start 2013, I discussed with excellent English chef James Knappett happens to us with a concept a few different, Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs.
After working like Head chef for Marcus Wareing (at the Berkeley) and passages at The Ledbury, Per Se and Noma, chef Knappett returned to its lands to open Bubbledogs & Kitchen Table. It is still unusual to find the “gourmet hot dogs” paired with a Champagne bar, with bonus “The Chef’s Table (19 seats)” behind it!
Beyond the very interesting idea of Bubbledogs, there is The Kitchen Table, the playground of the chef Knappett. A place where the chef can create and serve a “Tasting menu (11-12 courses)” that put out the best products of the season. A bit like Christian Puglisi (Relae) but in its own way, chef Knappett often works with 4 ingredients or less to showcase perfectly the product, its color, its essence.
This restaurant is more than just a “concept”, it is a chance to see a “maître-artisan” maximize the flavors front us; finesse and originality!
Q+A WITH JAMES KNAPPETT (www.bubbledogs.co.uk ):
1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your “cuisine”?
JKnappett– At Kitchen Table our philosophy is to showcase the ingredients by only using 1-4 ingredients on a plate at the same time, and not turning their flavours into something which no longer resembles the original form. We like to use a lot of British ingredients, but do also vary these with foreign additions such as lemons, limes and mangos. We also use a lot of wild herbs, berries and weeds which we forage ourselves, and these play a big part in our cooking.
2-(Scoffier) How do you explain the idea behind your concept “Bubbledogs”, that you have created with your partner/wife Sandia Chang?
JKnappett– We wanted to open a wine bar that supported the growers in Champagne. We also wanted a Champagne bar that had no pretentiousness and glitz. Therefore, as a food option we wanted something humble and accessible to all ages and all social statures. We also wanted the public to receive and think of food and wine matching in a different and more open minded way…and Champagne goes with everything!
3-(Scoffier) Do you have a flavour or taste from your childhood that is again memorable?
JKnappett– Dandelion and Burdock
4-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular foods (or products) that you often use in your recipes?
JKnappett– I love liquorice and try to always have this on the menu; also yogurt plays a big part in our cooking.
5-(Scoffier) You worked for Marcus Wareing (The Berkeley) and did internships with several important chefs (Noma, Per Se, The Ledbury), what you learned at these restaurants? Is there any other people who inspired you in the kitchen?
JKnappett– Thomas Keller and René Redzepi played massive parts in my training – they taught me to show food and staff respect, and also the art of finesse.
6-(Scoffier) How do you develop (process) your recipes? What are your source(s) of inspiration?
JKnappett– I develop our recipes by involving the whole team; from the juniors to the seniors everybody is involved. Inspiration comes solely from the raw ingredients and it’s from these that we then build the dishes.
7-(Scoffier) Why the choice of a pairing (hotdogs) with champagne? Is there room for small producers in your Champagne list?
JKnappett– Sparkling wine is always a great and traditional match with oily and salty food such as caviar and charcuterie. So, why not hot dogs? Small producers are our speciality – our list features only grower Champagnes.
8-(Scoffier) I had the chance to interview several talented young English chefs, the restaurant scene looks very dynamic, creative, original. But is it easy to open a restaurant in London? There are advantages for a young chef?
JKnappett– I wouldn’t say it is easy to open a restaurant anywhere; London might have the advantage of a lot more people but the extra costs equal this out.
9-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (Signature dish or other) that is characterized the cuisine of James Knappett?
JKnappett– Recipe: Pigeon
10-(Scoffier) What are your goals (ambitions) as chef and for your restaurant?
JKnappett– Our goal at Bubbledogs is to cook food and serve drinks as best we can, and for both our guests and us to enjoy what we do. Awards etc. are lovely but as long as everyone’s enjoying themselves then it’s just a bonus to us.
RECIPE: Pigeon, Onions, Elderberry, Fresh Almond
(Details of the recipe are not available)
FURTHER INFORMATION
KITCHEN TABLE at Bubbledogs/Chef-owner James Knappett
70 Charlotte St.
London W1T 4QG
info@bubbledogs.co.uk
PRESS
1. London Evening Standard, Review by Fay Maschler, Oct. 17, 2012
2. The Independant, Oct. 21, 2012
3. The Skinny Bib (Blog), June 16, 2012
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