THE NORDIC WAVES-SCANDINAVIAN CHEFS: GUNNAR KARL GISLASON

The Nordic Waves is the term I used to describe this group of chefs from all of Scandinavia, mainly from Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Iceland and Norway. These chefs known for 3-4 years at international level have particularly been at the forefront over the past two years due to the recognition of New Nordic Cuisine and the emphasis on a cuisine close to nature and the local products. All this, without relying on the status attained by the restaurant Noma and Chef René Redzepi. But beyond fashions and trends of the moment, I discovered a high concentration of young chefs, innovative, creative, open to the world and all dedicated to their garden and immediate environment.

In a logical sequence, I begin 2012 in Scandinavia to present Chef Gunnar Karl Gislason, “fer-de-lance” of Icelandic cuisine. Like many other excellent Scandinavian chefs, Gislason promotes the best nordic produces in her cuisine long time ago. Moreover, thinking “Nordic cuisine”, I often think at Iceland, Faroe Island  as a starting point. I remember the trip “voyage iniatique” of René Redzepi at the beginning of noma (see the Carnet in noma book).

Child of the place, chef Gislason made his classes in Iceland before to go at noma and with the Icelandic National Culinary Team. In February 2009, he decided to open Dill Restaurant with the sommelier Olafur Öm Olafsson, a wonderful little place in the Nordic House in Reykjavik. This restaurant is a window and a laboratory for the cuisine of Gislason, a cuisine already recognized abroad (he cooked at the James Beard House, NYC) and rewarded in Iceland and elsewhere.

Yet this time, it is a cuisine deeply rooted in the Icelandic & Nordic terroir.  A really modern cuisine which revisits the old methods (traditional) of cooking and preparation. A chef with an unique voice and an universal language. To follow for long time!

Q+A WITH GUNNAR KARL GISLASON (www.dillrestaurant.is ):

1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your cuisine and what is it main characteristics? What is the concept behind Dill Restaurant?

GKGislason- O well o well ! Icelandic kitchen, new nordic or slow food, it all sounds good and could all work fine with what we are doing. And to tell you the truth I don’t really care which one people use. We try to use our great Icelandic products, if what we need is not available in Iceland, we get them from our neighboring countries.

2-(Scoffier) Do you have a flavour or taste from your childhood that is again memorable?

GKGislason- I was raised in the country side and close to our house was a large field of 2 meters high chervil. I have play there a lot with my friends making secret tunnels and all that. Of course, I ate some of that fine anise smelling green herb and liked it. Even better was the scent of my clothes after one day in chervil.

3-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular foods (or products) that you often use in your recipes?

GKGislason- DILL would be pretty obvious answer, right ? And then there is the beautiful salted cod from my friend Elvar Reykjalín at Hauganes. He is using the old method, so it´s a one year’s pause and it just keep showing up on my menu.

4-(Scoffier) Do you have a mentor (chefs or anybody else) that inspires your cuisine?

GKGislason- My first cook book was given to me by my mother, it was White Heat by Marco Pierre White. I read that book 100 times and I would be lying if said that I didn’t get inspired after that. Then much later I worked for Erwin Lauterbach. His vegetables and philosophy is something, I will always remember and respect him. Later came René Redzepi and then my good friend Claus (Henriksen) that really opened up my mind on a good way.

5-(Scoffier) Can you describe the progression of the gastronomy in the country in the recent years?

GKGislason- After the financial crisis chefs have more and more opened up their eyes about Icelandic products because importing is expensive. And the Icelanders have started to produce more and more and that is very good! Now, it´s the only positive thinking about the financial crisis and at least we obtained something good out of it.

6-(Scoffier) How do you develop your recipes? What are your source(s) of inspiration?

GKGislason- Nothing and everything. It can be everything from nature to something that one of my children said the other day. Usually it just comes !

7-(Scoffier) You seem to have a natural affinity with the chef Claus Henriksen (Dragsholm Slot), are there any similarities in your cuisine?

GKGislason- Well we are good friends and we do agree on lot of things. I guess there are some similarities and that you could say about a lot of chefs using all the amazing raw materials from there nature. But every chef have their unique touch and more importantly there own nature. At the end of the day, the final result will never be the same.

8-(Scoffier) Do you are part of the New Nordic Cuisine manifesto?

GKGislason- Not really, I do use the manifesto as guidelines and I think that’s what it is, a guidelines rather that a rule. But then again I might be wrong, it happens.

9-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (Signature dish or other) that is characterized the cuisine of Gunnar Gislason and Dill Restaurant?

GKGislason- Recipe: Raekjur & Surmjolh uppsk

10-(Scoffier) What are your goals (ambitions) as chef and for your restaurant? Do you think about write a book, a television show, others?

GKGislason- I’m working on a book along with some good friends, when it will be ready, I don’t know yet… But it´s about Icelandic producers, especially those that encourage the very old methods that more and more are fading away.

RECIPE: Shrimp & Buttermilk. Bread crumbs, Wild chervil & Artic Char Roe.

Ingredients & Progression Recipe (6 pers.)

Shrimps.

250 gr raw shrimps

2 tablespoons neutral oil

1 teaspoon apple vinegar

Salt

In a bowl mix all together and season with salt

Butter milk.

300 gr buttermilk

Put the buttermilk on a cloth and let it stand in a cooler for 12 hour

Put the buttermilk from the cloth on a espuma bottle, put gas on it and shake well before service

Whey.

100 gr whey (use the one coming from the buttermilk)

1 gelatin sheet

Put the gelatin in cold water until soft. Clean in new water and then add to they whey

Heat until the gelatin is melted and then put in cooler until firm

Bread crumbs.

150 gr bread

20 gr butter

Salt

Cut the bread in cubes and fry it in the butter until crispy, season with salt an then put it on paper

Char roes.

6 teaspoons artic char roes.

Chervil oil.

50 gr wild chervil leafs

50 gr neutral oil

Put in blender and blend on full power until smoking hot (5-8 minutes). Put on cloth

Chervil.

Leafs of wild chervil for garnish.

FURTHER INFORMATION

Dill Restaurant/Chef-owner Gunnar Karl Gislason

Norraena husinu

Sturlugötu 5

101 Reykjavik (Iceland)

www.dillrestaurant.is

PRESS REVIEW/LINKS

1. Extreme Iceland (Presentation Dill restaurant)

2. T Magazine/NY Times, April 28, 2010

(NOTE: Credit for the photos: Dill Restaurant)

Tous Droits Réservés. Copyright Scoffier ©2008-2012

FLanghoff/©GlennKarlsrud

THE NORDIC WAVES-SCANDINAVIAN CHEFS: FILIP LANGHOFF

The Nordic Waves is the term I used to describe this group of chefs from all of Scandinavia, mainly from Sweden, Denmark, Finland and Norway. These chefs known for 3-4 years at international level have particularly been at the forefront over the past two years due to the recognition of New Nordic Cuisine and the emphasis on a cuisine close to nature and the local products. All this, without relying on the status attained by the restaurant Noma and Chef René Redzepi. But beyond fashions and trends of the moment, I discovered a high concentration of young chefs, innovative, creative, open to the world and all dedicated to their garden and immediate environment.

After to present you Sasu Laukkonen, I repeated in Finland with the chef Filip Langhoff. Barely thirty, Langhoff has been the chef of two of the best restaurants in Finland and Norway: Spisestedet Feinschmecker (Oslo) & Chez Dominique (Helsinki).

Born in 1980 at Helsinki, Filip Langhoff started his apprenticeship in the garden of his grandmother before learning the work in Oslo. After a stint at El Bulli, he entered through ‘’la Grande Porte’’ and pointed as Head chef of Feinschmecker (2005) and Chez Dominique (2010). Through this he found time to win the Bocuse ‘D’Or in 2009. Now he runs his company, CIBUS by Langhoff where he touches on all facets he loves in gastronomy: catering, food styling, education and consulting.

In talking with Langhoff, it seems that he has 30 years experience in the kitchen rather than this age … and still learning! His cuisine of a high precision highlights the purity of flavors and local produce.

The ‘’terroir’’ is important and social contribution (of chefs) as well, but we’re going to restaurant for the experience and pleasure of the table. With Filip Langhoff, we are in the fine cuisine at its best!

Q+A WITH FILIP LANGHOFF (www.cibus.fi ) :

1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your cuisine and what is it main characteristics?

FLanghoff- Normally, I like to let other people experience it and then, I explain my cuisine. I believe that everybody experience food and style in different ways but if I have to explain it, I would use three words: ingredient, flavor and story. When you have a great product there is no point of hiding it behind many flavors. Some times I use one main ingredient and other times more but the main line is always that everything else on the dish is there to enhance and support the main ingredients and its flavors.

For me, it is also very important that everything I use and serve have a meaning and a purpose. Food without a story is just so flat and boring.

2-(Scoffier) You were the Head chef of two of the best restaurants in the country, Feinschmecker & Chez Dominique, what have you learned?

FLanghoff- At Feinchmecker, I learned to trust my own ideas and to have respect for the customer.

Chez Dominique “plays in the big league” I learned what is required among the best. At both places, I really learned to push myself and never to stop.

3-(Scoffier) What is the concept/the idea behind CIBUS by Langhoff?

FLanghoff- Through my newly started company CIBUS by Langhoff, I work in four different fields: Consulting, Catering, Food styling and Education. I started the company to be able to work with the things that I am passionate about.

Consulting: As a consultant, I help restaurants to develop and help them to go further with their concepts. It can be new menus, special events or the work routines in the kitchen.

Catering: With our ‘’custom catering’’ as I call it, I plan all the details and menus, especially for the customer. Nothing is too strange or too special! It is the extraordinary events that I want to handle.

Food styling: Food and photography have always been a passion for me so with food styling I get to do two of the things, I really enjoy! Shooting products, dishes and whatever the customer wants.

Education: I give lectures and I teach about food and the restaurant’s life from my perspective and my point of view.

4-(Scoffier) Do you have a flavor or taste from your childhood that is again memorable?

FLanghoff- I will always remember my grandmother’s garden, the fresh parsley, the dill, the rhubarb and the berries. I will also remember how she was able to transform a “simple” meat soup into something fantastic with some fresh chopped parsley.

5-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular food (or product) that you often use in your recipes?

FLanghoff- After almost 10 years in Norway, the fish and shellfish from the surrounding seas were very important to me. But since I moved back to Finland, it is harder to get product of good quality, in fact it is almost impossible. Here I have to relay on other source of ingredients. Fresh water fish, wild mushrooms and root vegetables are ingredients I use a lot.

6-(Scoffier) Do you have a mentor (chef or anybody else) that inspires your cuisine?

FLanghoff- The most inspiring times in my career were the times when I found myself working with colleagues that I liked, who inspired me and that I have inspired. One of the person I worked with is Jon-Oskar Arnasson, an Icelandic chef. I got to work with him for 2 years when I was in Norway. With him I really developed the base of my cooking and we were able to push each other to new heights all the time.

Another time was when I worked as head chef at Spisestedet Feinschmecker and found myself with a superb staff that included chefs like Esben H. Bang (Maaemo) and Sebastian Persson (former Trio). All of them have changed and boost my way of cooking more than any other chef I have worked with over the years. But if I could be single and have no children today I would go and work for Grant Achatz at Alinea.

7-(Scoffier) Can you describe the restaurant’s scene of Helsinski and the progression of the gastronomy in the country?

FLanghoff- In Helsinki, there are only a few top restaurants but there are a group of young chefs ready to start for themselves. Some have already started and more are coming. I also hope that more chefs will dare to start new restaurants with high ambitions outside Helsinki. The average consumer is becoming more and more interested in food and what it is all about. The market for organic food is growing and a lot of small organic stores are popping up so we are going the right way. I believe that in 5 to 10 years from now we will have a completely changed the market, that the organic and the food produced locally will be the logical choice.

8--(Scoffier) How do you develop your recipes? What are your source(s) of inspiration?

FLanghoff- Inspiration can come from anywhere. Sometimes it comes from nature, sometimes from something somebody says or it may come from handling an exceptional ingredient. Then the process starts. The flavor of the chosen main ingredient stays in focus and I start to build up with techniques, flavors and textures that will bring the ingredient to its best. Some times it takes a day, other times it takes a year.

9-(Scoffier) Are you a part of the New Nordic Cuisine manifesto? Now, It is easy to source locally?

I do believe in the importance of the New Nordic Cuisine and the manifesto. Preferably local produce and if possible organic produce should be used. Historically we have been importing products in the Nordic regions so why not use lemons and spices that have been used here for centuries. Now, as then they should be used as an addition to our local products. With time they will become a part of our food heritage.

There are a lot of products to source locally but you have to work on the logistics. In the winter, it snows at least for 5 months and that makes it hard but not impossible.

10-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (Signature dish or other) that is characterized the cuisine of Filip Langhoff?

FLanghoff- I will give you a Norwegian shellfish, a favorite from my time spent at Feinschmecker, which I used in many different variations.

Recipe: Barley cooked in lobster stock with Norwegian shellfish, carrots and sea buckthorn

11-(Scoffier) What are your goals (ambitions) as a chef? Do you think about opening a restaurant, writing a book, having a television show, or others?

FLanghoff- Aside from getting CIBUS by Langhoff to work and taking care of my family, I have a restaurant project. Time will tell if we ever get that one up and running.

RECIPE: Barley cooked in lobster stock with Norwegian shellfish, carrots and sea buckthorn

Recipe/©GKarlsrud

The lobster stock, carrot juice and the acidic sea buckthorn give this dish its identity. Use home-made lobster stock. The carrot juice is best if centrifuged right before adding. The sea buckthorn juice should be uncooked and without added sugar. In autumn, the cold water along Norway’s coast yields the finest quality shellfish.

Ingredients & Progression Recipe (10 servings)

Lobster
-3 lobsters (750g / 1 ¾ pounds)
-50 g (2 ounces) butter
-30 g (1 stalk) celery
-30 ml (2 tablespoons) white wine

-Maldon sea salt

King crab
-300 g (10 ounces) king crab meat (cleaned legs)
-30 ml (2 tablespoons) sunflower oil

-30 g (1 ounce) butter
-10 ml (1 teaspoon) lemon juice
-Maldon sea salt

Shrimp
-200 g (7 ounces) Raw shrimp (without shells)
-30 ml (2 tablespoons) extra virgin olive oil
20 ml (4 teaspoons) sea buckthorn juice
5g (1 teaspoons) Maldon sea salt
1 stalk dill, chopped

1. Boil the lobsters in salted water for 2 minutes. Remove the tail and claws and pick out the meat. Save the shells for the stock and the claws for the risotto. Vacuum the tails with butter, celery and white wine. Poach in water bath with an immersion circulator at 59 C (138 F) for 10 minute
2. Season the crab with salt and sauté in oil until caramelized, around 2 minutes.
   Add butter and lemon and cook over low heat for around 2 minutes more.
3. Add all ingredients to the shrimps and mix well. Vacuum, then marinate for 20 minutes.

Barley
-300 g (10 ounces) pearl barley soaked over the night
-50 g (2 ounces) shallots
-20 g (1 ½ tablespoons) tomato paste
-40 ml (3 tablespoons) extra virgin olive oil
-300 ml (1 ¼ cups) lobster stock
-300 ml (1 ¼ cups) water
-20 g (1 ½ tablespoons) butter
-Lobster claw meat
-Salt and pepper
-Lemon juice
-Chives

4. Chop the shallots and sauté with tomato paste in half of the oil. Add barley and stock. Let simmer until all stock has been absorbed by the barley. Add water, little by little, cooking until all is absorbed before adding more.
5. Add the claw meat and let simmer for 2 minutes.
6. At the end, stir in the olive oil and butter.
7. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice and garnish with chives.

Pickled carrots
-10 tiny carrots
-2 carrots
-60 ml (1/3 cup) carrot juice
-20 ml (4 teaspoons) sea buckthorn juice
-40 g (3 tablespoons) sugar

8. Heat carrot juice, sea buckthorn juice and sugar until the sugar dissolves, stirring constantly.
9. Peel the tiny carrots and cut to 5 cm (2 inch) lengths. Place in a vacuum
   bag with half the juice mixture. Poach in water bath with an immersion circulator at 85 C (185 F) for 40 minutes.
10. Peel the carrots and cut into 2 x 2 x 10 cm (3/4 x ¾ x 4 inches) lengths.
    Cut into around 20 1 mm thick slices with a mandolin. Place in a vacuum
    bag with the remaining juice mixture. Poach in water bath with an immersion circulator at 85 C (185F) for 30 minutes.

Carrot reduction
-300 ml (1 ¼ cups) carrot juice
-30 ml (2 tablespoons) sea buckthorn juice
-10 g (2 teaspoons) sugar

11. Reduce the carrot juice over high heat until it becomes syrupy and about
    20% of the original amount remains.
12. Combine sea buckthorn juice and sugar with the carrot syrup and keep stirring until sugar dissolves.

Sea buckthorn froth
-300 ml (1 ¼ cups) sea buckthorn juice
-200 ml (¾ cup) carrot juice
-20 g (4 teaspoons) sugar
-5 g (1 ½ teaspoon) lecithin

13. Combine all ingredients at low speed in a thermomixer at 60 C (140 F) for 10 minutes.
14. Strain, then whisk to froth with an immersion blender.

Garnish
-Thin shreds of celery
-Olive oil
-Dill peaks

Plating

Brush carrot reduction across a plate. Place all ingredients on the reduction. In first, lobster and king crab then the carrot ribbons, mini carrots and shrimp. Garnish with dill, celery and olive oil. Top with the sea buckthorn froth and serve the barley risotto alongside.

FURTHER INFORMATION

CIBUS by Langhoff/Chef-owner Filip Langhoff

info@cibus.fi

Helsinki (Finland)

www.cibus.fi

PRESS REVIEW/LINKS

1. COCO Book, Phaidon

2. Chez Dominique

3. Restaurant Feinschmecker

4. Bocuse D’Or 2009 (press)

Tous Droits Réservés. Copyright Scoffier ©2008-2011

SLaukkonen/©LiisaValonen

THE NORDIC WAVES-SCANDINAVIAN CHEFS: SASU LAUKKONEN

The Nordic Waves is the term I used to describe this group of chefs from all of Scandinavia, mainly from Sweden, Denmark, Finland and Norway. These chefs known for 3-4 years at international level have particularly been at the forefront over the past two years due to the recognition of New Nordic Cuisine and the emphasis on a cuisine close to nature and the local products. All this, without relying on the status attained by the restaurant Noma and Chef René Redzepi. But beyond fashions and trends of the moment, I discovered a high concentration of young chefs, innovative, creative, open to the world and all dedicated to their garden and immediate environment.

With this Series, I discovered several young chefs and parts of Scandinavia, but I have not had a chance to present an emerging chef from Finland. Here is by ‘’the front door’’, the chef Sasu Laukkonen.

Born in 1975, this young chef has a long experience in the kitchen. Without repeating his curriculum vitae, I will note its short internships at Château Carsin (Bordeaux), Lux and F12 at Stockholm, but mainly his work as head chef to La Petite Maison and Loft Restaurant & Lounge in Helsinki.

In 2010, Sasu Laukkonen decides to open his own restaurant, Chef & Sommelier. A restaurant ”human (grandeur)” where the chef (which makes the service too!) and his team decided to focus on organic products, local and close to nature.

Sasu Laukkonen makes a ‘’cuisine of heart’’, all handmade with the best products in Finland. Under the guise simple, her cuisine carries a unique background. The chef said ‘’Pure in taste’’, I would say also Purely Finnish! When everyone is rediscovering its ‘’terroir’’, this is the talent and creativity that emerges, and this is the case at Chef & Sommelier!

Q+A WITH SASU LAUKKONEN (www.chefetsommelier.fi ):

1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your cuisine and what is it main characteristics? What is the concept behind Chef & Sommelier Restaurant?

SLaukkonen- The Chef & Sommelier concept is all about giving people a choice to eat a good organic (and wild) dinner in a laid back atmosphere in Helsinki. The restaurant is very small ( 25 seats ) and cosy, and we want our guests to feel welcome.

I’ve been talking about finesse-dining for a long time now, which I still keep as a term for what I do. It means that one can get fine dining on the plate but feel relaxed and even have a bit of fun while having a great dinner and with the Chef, his sommelier and his kitchen team.

My cuisine is very ingredient-based and natural. Actually, without good ingredients it’s impossible for me to do what I do. My philosophy is to think of ingredients as a whole and make the best out of them and let guests sample different parts of them. For example, buying half a limousine bull is lot different as an ingredient as buying just tenderloin, right?

I also try not to do too much to the ingredients so that one does not lose contact with the real thing. We are very vegetarian friendly, so I don’t use (for ex.) gelatine for anyone.

We use a lot of the less respected/valued ingredients and make them into something new and interesting and we put a lot of time and effort into foraging and picking ourselves so we fully know where the ingredients come from.

2-(Scoffier) Do you have a flavour or taste from your childhood that is again memorable?

SLaukkonen- Yes, several actually. One was just last August when we were picking peas from our garden and when tasting them I remembered
how it felt and tasted when I was just a little boy. Another one is wood sorrel, every time I taste it.

3-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular foods (or products) that you often use in your recipes?

SLaukkonen- Yes, indeed. Lemon has been my all time favorite. Also rosemary and horseradish, especially wild horseradish – the leaves and the stem have very certain flavor compared to the root (which is commonly used). But I am very seasonal, and of course one has his favorites, too.

Celeriac/©LValonen

4-(Scoffier) Do you have a mentor (chefs or anybody else) that inspires your cuisine?

SLaukkonen- My cuisine is inspired by everything I see, hear and read. Mentors, yes, many. But I’ve always been the kind of a chef that has more or less been going his own path.

I think my biggest inspiration has been to be able to see chefs that are creative and brave and to let their food and style inspire me into finding my own inspirations.

5-(Scoffier) Can you describe the progression of the gastronomy in the country in the recent years? Is the terroir in Finland
is very different from that of its neighbors (Norway, Sweden…)?

SLaukkonen- Gastronomy in Finland has taken a big leap within the last five years, but it is still quite Helsinki-based. There are some really good restaurants outside Helsinki, but really only a few compared to the amount in the capital.

Customers nowadays have seen quite a bit already, and one as a restauranteur has to be awake. There’s no easy way out anymore. People demand value for their money. 

I’m glad that quite many chefs have made their own restaurants, because they make them look, feel and taste how they want.

The terroir here is almost the same with other Nordic countries, except that some countries are further down south, so they get a couple of extra days of growth period before winter comes. Ideal place for foraging and gardening certain varieties of vegetables, pure waters for great fish and lots of forests for game.

6-(Scoffier) How do you develop your recipes? What are your source(s) of inspiration?

SLaukkonen- I am very spontaneous. Ingredients inspire me, so when I come to think of a new one is start examining them. My recipes and ideas come to me when they come, I never force them out. Usually the best ideas come to me in the shower during mornings, I spend some time there relaxing and drinking coffee.

7-(Scoffier) Do you are part of the New Nordic Cuisine manifesto?

SLaukkonen- No. To be frank, I’ve never even read the whole manifesto with thought. Maybe I should do just that.

8-(Scoffier) You have a focus for the organic products It is now (in 2011) easy to source locally?

SLaukkonen- I’m very happy now, since I feel that finally the circle is starting to close – the first product to find me (without me trying
to find it) just came to me a couple of weeks ago – a finnish organic shiitake mushroom. Incredible ingredient!

Yes, sourcing for me has become easier this year, but mostly because I’ve started to get to know the right people behind the great products. But I worked for 3,5 months before we opened in August 2010 to find the right people, too.

I have been very lucky since I found Jukka Ahonala, who is a farmer, but also sources for me. He also can supply organic products from Europe if I am in need of them during the long winter. And still I am in direct contact with the farmers.

9-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (Signature dish or other) that is characterized the cuisine of Sasu Laukkonen and Chef & Sommelier?

SLaukkonen- Recipe: Celeriac & Nuts

I can give you a recipe for a dish that is on the menu now, since I am very seasonal chef. It is a recipe for a starter of celeriac and nuts. I use the celeriac as a whole so guests can compare the different tastes of the different parts of the same root vegetable. This recipe is for 8 people as a starter.

10-(Scoffier) What are your goals (ambitions) as chef and for your restaurant? Do you think about write a book, a television show, others?

SLaukkonen- Well, actually I have been cooking on tv every other saturday morning now for three seasons and will possible continue that
next year.

Books, maybe. I have a vision about a vegetarian cookbook that is based on ingredients and seasons.

Ambitions as a chef – to be able to do what I do right now and to just take that forward and to keep it real. To stay focused. And to attend MAD Food Camp next year! Ambitions for the restaurant – to stay as intensive without losing “the grip” and to set up a tiny Chef & Sommelier organic bakery at some point (maybe).

RECIPE: Celeriac & Nuts

CeleriacRecipe/©LiisaValonen

Ingredients & Progression Recipe

-1 whole organic celeriac (lifted from underground max 1,5-2 months ago)

-Unrefined sea salt

-Organic olive oil

-½ dl organic hazelnuts

-½ dl organic pistachio nuts, gently roasted and peeled

-Unrefined seasalt

-Organic unrefined sugar

-Organic Balsamico di Modena

-2 dl organic double cream

-1 g Texturas iota

1. First wash and rinse the whole celeriac really well. Also scrub the bulb so that one can use the peel.

2. Pick the leaves separate, cut the green stems into 0,5 cm pieces and reserve them separate but keep a little bit of the stem connected to the bulb.

3. Cut a 1/4^th piece of the bulb with the stem-part intact and wash it very thoroughly, use a toothpick to get in between the stem parts. Peel the bulb with a peeler and keep the peels separate. Also cut off the worm-shaped roots and slice them raw and keep them separate in a moist place.

4. Cut the well peeled bulb-root in to 1 cm cubes and cook them in boiling water until soft, for about 20 minutes. Sieve off the water but save it for later. Puree the cooked bulb pieces with unrefined sea salt to taste and use the cooking water to smoothen the texture if necessary. Chill the puree in a container with a lid on.

5. Cook the leaves in boiling water for 2 minutes and lift them in to ice water directly to cool down. When cold, squeeze of any excess liquid from the leaves and puree them with the chilled bulb cooking water to a smooth puree. Reserve in the fridge.

6. Heat clean deep frying oil (or canola oil) until 180c and deep fry the peels of the bulb until crispy and darker brown. Place them on kitchen paper and season them with unrefined sea salt before they cool down. Keep them in room temperature.

7. Cook the 1/4^th piece in salted water until al dente, about 10-15 minutes and keep it underwater with something on top. Don’t let it boil too hard when cooking. Chill the piece in ice water and slice into 8 pieces afterwards.

8. Fry the green stems in a bit of olive oil very hastily and to cover with water. Season with salt and cook for 1 minute. Sieve and chill them.

9. Put half of the hazelnuts in to a little pot and on the stove. When they start to smell and roast a little bit, put in a pinch of salt and sugar. Take off the stove and drop little droplets of Balsamico di Modena in so that it evaporates but gives a little glaze on top of the nuts. Cool the nuts on a plate and slice them into smaller bits before serving.

10. Make the hazelnut cream:

Put the other half of the hazelnuts in to a pot with the cream and season them with a little bit of salt and sugar. Cook it up and leave it next to the stove in a warm place so that is stays hot but doesn’t cook, about 10 minutes. Mix the cream for a bit with a blender – just a couple of pulses and sieve the cream. Mix in the iota. Cook up to 82c, sieve and pour into little silicon moulds. Cover with cling film and let set at room temperature.

11. Finish the sauce:

Heat the leaf puree until 50c, check for salt and/or sugar. Add 0,5 dl of olive oil but don’t emulsify, leave it a bit split. Cut the pistachio with a knife and add in to the sauce.

12. Serve all the different parts of celeriac with the hazelnut “panna cotta” and the hazelnuts.

FURTHER INFORMATION

Restaurant Chef & Sommelier/Chef-Owner Sasu Laukkonen, Sommelier Johan Borgar

Huvilakatu 28

00150 Helsinki (Finland)

www.chefetsommelier.fi

www.sasulaukkonen.com

PRESS REVIEW

1. Delicately Organic, We Are Helsinki magazine, March 2011

2. Valio Kotiruoka (Finland TV show), May 2011

3. Finnair Blue Wings,

Tous Droits Réservés. Copyright Scoffier ©2008-2011

JamesLowe/©JLowe

THE GAME-BRITISH & SCOTTISH CHEFS: JAMES LOWE

The Brits have been preparing for some time the after Gordon Ramsay and Marco Pierre White cuisine. Not that there is a british style but we can certainly say that the emerging chefs are pro-locavore and that they are sourcing the best products of the island of Albion. In the very cosmopolitan London, the influences of young chefs are many, which give them a unique culinary personality.

I had the pleasure to discuss with the other two members of the Young Turks (Isaac McHale, Ben Greeno) a past few months, and to finish off and complete the trio, I invite youto discover the excellent chef James Lowe.

In talking with James Lowe, I discovered an ‘’Électrons libres’’ (probably as McHale & Greeno) with a very simple philosophy, an iconoclast with strong opinions about ‘’sa cuisine’’ and the gastronomy in general. Some thought that the chefs develop after several years only.

Lowe’s cuisine is strongly influenced by his time as Head chef of St John Bread & Wine and his work with the chef Fergus Henderson, but also with its passage in the kitchens of Fat Duck and noma. He shares with Henderson the philosophy ”Nose to Tail’‘ and it is completely guided by market products, the British market’s of course!

Follow this chef, its events, its future restaurant because that will be for chefs like James Lowe that we will go to a restaurant in a few years: a simple cuisine, creative food, a strong personality and a social conscience in harmony with its environment.

Q+A WITH JAMES LOWE (www.youngturks.co ):

1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your cuisine and what is it main characteristics?

JLowe- I would say that my food is a very commonsense’ in attitude, it’s heavily produce driven, quite pared back and uncomplicated. I like using British produce the majority of the time because I’m proud of being British and I honestly believe that we have not only some of the best, but also some of the most interesting produce in the world.

2-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your concept The Young Turks?

JLowe- With the Young Turks we wanted to draw attention to a new kind of British cooking, one that focused on our excellent native produce, brought vegetables to the fore and sought to be creative without being pretentious or complicated. We want to encourage collaboration and helpfulness and use it as a platform to share ideas as a way of moving forwards.

3-(Scoffier) Do you have a flavour or taste from your childhood that is again memorable?

JLowe- Well, my parents love telling everyone that ‘all I used to eat was bacon’, so I’m going to go with that. A bacon sandwich is certainly still one of my favourite things!

4-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular foods (or products) that you often use in your recipes?

JLowe- I would say that there are certainly suppliers that I use often, I have specific farms that I buy pork, lamb and beef from. Then there are the suppliers that take on the ‘middleman’ role, these people are massively important since they are able to find and tell
you what is currently at its best. When it comes to foods I would say that it varies with the seasons. In winter I use all sorts of game and load my menus with it, whereas in the summer I do far more vegetables dishes.

5-(Scoffier) Do you share the philosophy of Fergus Henderson ‘’Nose to tail eating’’? Do you have another chefs or anybody else that inspires you in your cuisine?

JLowe- Absolutely, Fergus is brilliant, my first meal at St John was one of the things that made me want to be a chef.  I think ‘Nose
to Tail’ fits in with a common sense approach to foods, it’s very satisfying to break down an entire animal and fit all the parts into your menu in various ways. Heston (Blumenthal) has also been a huge inspiration, both in terms of eating at The Fat Duck before I started cooking, and talking about food and restaurants whilst working with him.

6-(Scoffier) I saw that you have strong opinions on the restoration and the cuisine, and it is a difficult business! How do you see your first restaurant: small, fine dining, several important partners?

JLowe- I’d like the style of the restaurant to be fairly similar to the food: pared back, unfussy and honest. The menu will be around £30 for four or five courses at dinner and more of a list menu at lunch that would allow people to snack or eat more quickly. I’m hoping that people will be as receptive to the idea of no choice in a restaurant environment as they are at one of our events. I also want to somehow recreate the vibe and atmosphere that we have at a Young Turks gig in the restaurant – it’ll be a real challenge to maintain that energy in a permanent location.

7-(Scoffier) How do you develop (your inspiration) your recipes and construct your menu with Isaac McHale for each event?

JLowe- Each time we plan event we look carefully at what produce is available at that time and then where can we get it from. Next, we look at where we’ll be working and what limitations that places on us. The inevitable restrictions are what make the menu writing
process for a temporary event so interesting. The food has to fit the venue and be feasible to pull off to our standard. As an example our last event was on a car park rooftop in a very small kitchen equipped with a small oven and a massive grill, so we based the food loosely on a Turkish Ocakbasi, but done in our way.

8-(Scoffier) I know you were in MAD event (August 2011), what have you learned? Before, have you been influenced by René Redzepi and the New Nordic Cuisine manifesto?

JLowe- The MAD symposium was very interesting, there were talks on plant neurobiology, agricultural policy and farming sustainability.  Combined with the energy of the people in attendance and some great meals in Copenhagen I think it would be hard not to come back inspired from the event.

I didn’t eat at noma on this last visit but I think René has certainly had an influence on me. I first ate there about six years ago and was amazed at the quality and type of produce that was on display, I felt that what he was doing in Copenhagen was definitely possible in the UK, surely the same sort of ingredients would be available over here? People are just so busy in the restaurant industry that it’s hard to stop, think and look around for alternative ways of doing things. I think that was also one of the goals of MAD – to make people stop and think about what they were doing, the consequences of their choices – and I’m sure most of us who were there have done.

9-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (Signature dish or other) that is characterized of your cuisine?

JLowe- Recipe: Raw forerib, oyster, elderberry capers and chickweed

10-(Scoffier) What are your goals (ambitions) as chef or for The Young Turks? Do you think about write a book, a television show, an event outside of London?

JLowe- Personally, my main goal is to get my restaurant open, get cooking for people and to be busy. I’d like to do other things in the
future but for now I just need to get a site! As for the ‘Turks, we have invites and plans to do a few things outside of the UK including Australia with the TOYS crew, Sweden at Bastard restaurant and to cook in Paris, which I really hope we get round to sorting out because it would be great to take British food to these places.

RECIPE: Raw Forerib, Oyster, Elderberry Capers and Chickweed

RawForerib/©PaJorgensen

Ingredients & Progression Recipe

-400g Well marbled, aged forerib

-Dijon mustard

-Olive oil

-Unripe elderberries

-Coarse salt

-Cider vinegar

-3 native oysters

-150g vegetable oil

-Vinegar from elderberry capers

-Salt

-Beef dripping

-200g Sourdough

-Chickweed or wild watercress

Method

Beef

1. Separate the beef from the fat and connective tissue. Chop the beef fairly roughly into 5mm dice. Chop the fat into 2-3mm dice.

Elderberry capers

1. Pick the unripe elderberries after the blossom has fallen but before the branches (and obviously the fruit) turn red. Mix with twice the weight of coarse salt, cover and refrigerate for 2 weeks. Rinse the salt off the berries. Bring to the boil enough cider vinegar to cover the berries completely. Drop the berries into the pot, bring back to the boil and pour into preserving jars and seal.

Oyster emulsion

1. Open the oysters. Strain the liquid from the oysters and keep. Blend the oysters to a puree then add the oil at a slow rate (as if making
mayonnaise). Continue until the emulsion is very thick. Add some vinegar from the elderberry capers and salt to season.

To serve

1. Allow the beef to come up to room temperature (over 21C), add olive oil, mustard, salt and pepper to season. Place on the plate in a very shallow layer. Pour half the reserved oyster juice over the beef. Blitz the sourdough into crumbs and fry in the beef dripping until brown and crispy. Scatter these crumbs and the elderberry capers over the beef. Pipe blobs of the oyster emulsion evenly over the beef. Add a layer of chickweed or wild watercress tops.

FURTHER INFORMATION

The Young Turks/Chef James Lowe (London)

www.youngturks.co

PRESS REVIEW

1. A New Movement…, by Bruce Palling, WStreet Journal, April 2011

2. The Young Turks at Franks Cafe (Video), August 2011

3. Catch them if you can, by Nicholas Lander, Financial Times, April 2011

Tous Droits Réservés. Copyright Scoffier ©2008-2011

CHenriksenKitchen/©DragsholmSlot

THE NORDIC WAVES-SCANDINAVIAN CHEFS: CLAUS M. HENRIKSEN

The Nordic Waves is the term I used to describe this group of chefs from all of Scandinavia, mainly from Sweden, Denmark and Norway. These chefs known for 3-4 years at international level have particularly been at the forefront over the past two years due to the recognition of New Nordic Cuisine and the emphasis on a cuisine close to nature and the local products. All this, without relying on the status attained by the restaurant Noma and Chef René Redzepi. But beyond fashions and trends of the moment, I discovered a high concentration of young chefs, innovative, creative, open to the world and all dedicated to their garden and immediate environment.

The Series allowed me to talk to some chefs who had the privilege of being on a unique property, to have immediate access to their gardens and nature. I am thinking to Magnus Ek, Magnus Nilsson, Kobe Desramaults, Dan Hunter, Peeter Pihel and now Claus M. Henriksen of Dragsholm Slot. Henriksen has a double chance to cook in a unique historic Dragsholm Castle (13th century), but also be able to pick its products to even one of the main sources of the best chefs in Copenhagen, the Lammefjorden (Danish Island of Zealand).

Henriksen is 31 years old, this young chef has worked only in Denmark, including two years as sous-chef at noma before becoming executive chef of Drasholm Castle. Inspired by Redzepi and its immediate environment, we can say that the vegetables and the terroir are the ‘’heart of its cuisine’’. Harvest to plate, only 12 hours!

We could name her cuisine New Nordic Cuisine, but so close to the source, I would say New Danish Cuisine! An inspirational chef, an exciting and a creative cuisine, close to a certain purity of flavors. A craftsman dedicated to his work!

Q+A WITH CLAUS M. HENRIKSEN (www.dragsholm-slot.dk ):

1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your cuisine and what is it main characteristics?

CHenriksen- In Danish we say “fra jord til bord” which translates from the soil/earth/fields onto the table. The main characteristic is putting emphasize on the local vegetables and handling them only as much as necessary to extract the best taste.

2-(Scoffier) Do you have a flavour or taste from your childhood that is again memorable?

CHenriksen- It is a danish classical coffee cake, which can be found in all bakeries, called “brunsviger” – a yeast dough covered with brown sugar and butter. This happens also to be the first thing I baked by myself as a child.

3-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular foods (or products) that you often use in your recipes?

CHenriksen- I use a lot wild plants, herbs and flowers from our herbal garden, the local beach and the surrounding forests.

4-(Scoffier) Do you have a mentor (chefs or anybody else) that inspires you in your cuisine?

CHenriksen- In the very beginning of my career it was probably Marco Pierre White and then in course of the next couple of years Michel Bras and, of course, René Redzepi from Noma made a big impact.

5-(Scoffier) I know that you work with noma. Do you are part of the New Nordic Cuisine manifesto? If yes, are you
as strict (just local products) that René Redzepi in your recipes?

CHenriksen- I’m not a part of the manifesto. But I believe in using as many local high quality products as possible. Compared to René , I’m so lucky that the castle is surrounded by our own fields, which we can harvest from – it can’t get much more local than that!

6-(Scoffier) Do you spend as much of time to choose and pick your produces each day?

CHenriksen- Yes, more or less. It depends of course on the amount of guests we have in the restaurants. We start each day at our main suppliers, picking and choosing the daily vegetables and on the way back to the castle we often collect some herbs and plants from the region.

7-(Scoffier) How do you develop (your inspiration) your recipes and construct your menu at Dragsholm Slot?

CHenriksen- In essence, it is about making use of what it best now. We look at what our local farms can supply and then build up the menu from there. So I start out choosing a vegetable and then find a fish or some meat which can accompany the vegetable, and so on. The season’s best vegetable always gets the honor of being served as a vegetarian main course (one course of the 5-7 course menu).

8-(Scoffier) Dragsholm Castle is also a hotel with another restaurant (The eatery). Do you direct all the kitchens? What is the difference between the menus?

CHenriksen- Yes, I direct all kitchens, the gourmet restaurant, the eatery and our catering department. All outlets use the same produce and have the same high quality, just differ in style. Often the most popular dishes from the gourmet restaurant are adapted so that they then also can be used in the other outlets.

9-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (Signature dish or other) that is characterized the cuisine of Claus Henriksen at Dragholm Slot?

CHenriksen- Recipe: Havgus Cheese & Crushed Nettle, Wild Mushrooms, Roasted Buckwheat & an Aromatic Mushroom Sauce

10-(Scoffier) What are your goals (ambitions) as chef or for the restaurant? Do you think about write a book, others?

CHenriksen- I would love to write another book. Last year, I published one with the castle with some recipes and a lot of interesting
information about the castle’s history and surroundings. It is unfortunately only in Danish – so I’d love to write one in English so it can reach a larger audience perhaps with emphasize on what one can cook in the winter, when nature gives you so much less to work with. The challenge is bigger but the dishes actually end up being more intensive.

Otherwise, I look forward to constantly improving and developing our product. For example I put a lot of effort into finding the perfect plate for each of my new creations. There is always something that can be improved and perfected.

RECIPE: Havgus Cheese & Crushed Nettle, Wild Mushrooms, Roasted Buckwheat & an Aromatic Mushroom Sauce

Recipe/©DragsholmSlot

Ingredients & Progression Recipe (For 6)

For the aromatic mushroom sauce

-200 g mixed wild mushroom

-2 dl cream

-Salt

-5 dl whole milk

-50 g butter

As well as

-50 g nettle

-100 g parsley

-40 g Havgus (or similar cheese, like  e.g. comté)

-30 g dry old bread

-Some salt

-20 g buckwheat kernels

-25 g butter

-500g wild mushrooms (e.g. chanterelle and pucini/cep mushrooms)

-Some wild herbs and flowers (e.g. chickweed, yarrow)

-Some oil or butter for pan-roasting the mushrooms

-6 slices 2mm thick Havgus cheese (or similar cheese)

Preparation

1. For the aromatic sauce, put all ingredients in a pot and let them come to a boil. Then let it simmer for approx. 20 minutes. Pour the sauce through a strainer into another pot.

2. Wash the nettle and parsley and dry them in a salad spinner.

3. Cut the Havgus or similar cheese into small cubes. Put the cheese, nettle, parsley and old, dried bread into a blender. Blend it into a coarse pesto with some salt.

4. Roast the buckwheat kernels in butter until they are golden brown. Add some salt and let them drip of on some paper towels.

5. Wash the plants/herbs in cold water and let them drip off on paper towels.

6. Take 6 plates and place a generous spoon full of crushed nettle on the bottom of the plate. Spread it out to the approx. size of your cheese slices. Roast the mushrooms in butter. Place them on the crushed nettle. Then place a slice of cheese on top of the mushrooms. With a gas torch melt the cheese so that it covers all previous ingredients. Sprinkle the buckwheat kernels on top of the cheese. With a hand blender make the aromatic mushroom sauce foamy and place the foam around the cheese. Finish off by placing some herbs in the middle of the plate.

FURTHER INFORMATION

Dragsholm Slot/Executive Chef Claus M. Henriksen

Dragsholm Allé

4534 Horve (Denmark)

www.dragsholm-slot.dk

PRESS REVIEW

1. Great Dane dining, The Australian, April 2011

2. Review by Eva Helbaek, August 2010

Tous Droits Réservés. Copyright Scoffier ©2008-2011

LDale-Roberts/©TheTestKitchen

THE ÉLECTRONS LIBRES-SOUTH AFRICAN CHEF: LUKE DALE-ROBERTS

The Électrons Libres, is a group of chefs that are as individual or a leaders of a group have taken a unique route that goes beyond the learning process. Their philosophy transforms the cuisine of the present time as well as the cuisine of the future in a specific area (place) or country. Sometimes they are the leaders of a culinary movement but often, they are alone in their search.

I spoke with several emerging chefs of great talent, some start and others are already renowned chefs, I think Jose Avilez, Carlo Cracco, Mark Best, Brett Graham etc… Luke Dale-Roberts is in this group but rather in the shadows because South Africa is sometimes forgotten on the international culinary scene.

Luke Dale-Roberts was born in England, but once the cuisine has entered his life, he began to travel: from Zurich to London, but especially for a few years in Asia (Tokyo, Singapore, Manila …) as a chef or consultant to the Accor Group. In 2006, he puts his bags and
became executive chef of La Colombe restaurant on the beautiful Constantia Uitsig Wine Estate (South Africa). Under his leadership the restaurant reached 12th place in the San Pellegrino 50 Best Restaurants of the World Awards 2010!

Now he opened his restaurant The Test Kitchen, a small 30-seater restaurant in the beautiful city of Cape Town and the revitalized Woodstock. A restaurant where he can experiment and create a unique cuisine with the best local products but also with the help of his (great) technique and his many influences.

Superb cuisine, very pure, with a mastery of several flavors and terroirs. A singular chef who could become the leader (model) for many young South African chefs!

Q+A WITH LUKE DALE-ROBERTS (www.thetestkitchen.co.za ):

1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your cuisine and what is it main characteristics?

LDRoberts- The focus of my cuisine is primarily its originality and its creativity. I try to always work with the best (local) products in South Africa (Cape Town) and to maximize their flavors.

2-(Scoffier) You were the chef at La Colombe (# 12 in 2010 on the San Pellegrino’s Restaurants Awards). What is the main difference between the two locations and in your cuisine?

LDRoberts- The Test Kitchen is a logical progression for me. By moving from a famous restaurant (La Colombe) to a small square and a small team allows me to push and experiment even more; it also allows me to change my cuisine in another environment.

3-(Scoffier) Do you have a flavour or taste from your childhood that is again memorable?

LDRoberts- Being from the English countryside, I have memories of small fruits such as currants, blackberries, but also the elderflower.

4-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular foods (or products) that you often use in your recipes?

LDRoberts- In addition to the best of South Africa, I discover and I use many Korean products.

5-(Scoffier) Do you have a mentor (chefs or anybody else) that inspires you in your cuisine?

LDRoberts- I was fortunate to meet Pierre Gagnaire and I was impressed by his energy and creativity, what character! I am also influenced and stimulated by everything around me.

6-(Scoffier) Can you describe the restaurant’s scene of South Africa (Cape Town) and the progression of the gastronomy in the country?

LDRoberts- I would say that for at least the last 5 years no doubt, the cuisine of South Africa and some South African chefs have reached an international level and there are probably several reasons. The discovery of local terroir, travel, international events and working with the vineyards has put South Africa on the gastronomic map.

7-(Scoffier) How do you develop (your inspiration) your recipes and construct your menu at The Test Kitchen?

LDRoberts- I think of different ideas regularly and when the ideas are ready, I exchange them with my assistants and most importantly, I let them taste! What inspire me very often are the products from my suppliers and seafood close by. On my menu, I try to incorporate one new dish a week.

8-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (Signature dish or other) that is characterized the cuisine of Luke Dale-Roberts?

LDRoberts- Recipe: Liver & Liquorices Dish

9-(Scoffier) What are your goals (ambitions) as chef or for your restaurant? Do you think about write a book, a
television show, others restaurants?

LDRoberts- The restaurant is a new place so my main objective is to consolidate the gains and ensure that The Test Kitchen
is increasingly recognized worldwide for its cuisine and to continually push the boundaries.

RECIPE: Liver & Liquorices Dish

LiverLiquorices/©TheTestKitchen

Ingredients & Progression Recipe

Liver and liquorices jus

-150 gr sliced onions

-50 gr black forest

-10 gr Thyme

-1 clove garlic

-50 gr diced liver

-30 gr Sliced liquorices root

-200 ml Medium sherry

-200 ml Port base or good demi glaze

1. Poach liquorices in sherry.

2. Brown off 1st 4 items in pan until golden and add livers and continue browning. Deglaze with medium sherry mix. Add port base (demi) and reduce to light jus. Let steep and strain.

Lime marmelade pure

-6 limes halfed and squeezed. Reserve juice

1. Cut off ends of limes and dice coarsely

2. Boil 6 times and replace water each time until pith is soft.

3. Drain for last time. For every 500 gr lime put in 250 gr sugar.

4. 1 small stick of cinnamon bark and 2 tsp pectin powder.

5. Cover with water and lime juice and cook down until slightly thicked. Remove cinnamon.

6. Blend to form smooth pure. If too thick add water. Pass through drum sieve. Reserve

Salted figs

-12 ripe figs

-300 gr rock salt

-150 gr sugar

-2 med cinnamon sticks

-6 each star anise

1. Everything apart from figs. Line colander with muslin cloth and layer of salt mix. Lay figs on top. Cover figs in salt mix. Leave for 48 hrs and dust off. Store in jars with ex virgin olive oil, 2 star anise and 2 cinnamon sticks.

Onion confit

-8 spring onions cut into 7 cm

-8 baby shallots peeled and halved

-150 ml herb oil

-3 sprigs thyme

-1 clove garlic crushed

1. Place everything in vac bag and season with Maldon. Cook at 85C for 40 mins or until soft.

Lime and pinenut gremolata

-20 gr chopped preserved lemons

-100 gr roasted and chopped pinenuts

-2 limes zested (Microplane)

-10 gr chopped lemon thyme

-10 gr palm sugar

1. Chop everything together to make a sharp, bright green condiment.

Chicken livers

-12 chicken livers cleaned

-30 ml herb oil

-Salt and pepper

1. Cook in sous vide at 64 C for 8 mins then brown lightly.

Panetta crisp

1. Very finely slice pancetta and bake in oven between parchment at 140 C until crisp.

Assemble as in picture

FURTHER INFORMATION

The Test Kitchen/Executive Chef Luke Dale-Roberts

Shop 104 A, The Old Biscuit Mill

375 Albert Road

Woodstock, Cape Town (South Africa)

www.thetestkitchen.co.za

www.lukedaleroberts.com
PRESS/REVIEW

1. The Test Kitchen review, January 2011

2. The TravelEditor.com review

3. eatout review, November 2010

4. Taste Magazine, July 2011

Tous Droits Réservés. Copyright Scoffier ©2008-2011

DAchilles/©Reinstoff

THE ÉLECTRONS LIBRES-GERMAN CHEF: DANIEL ACHILLES

The Électrons Libres, is a group of chefs that are as individual or a leaders of a group have taken a unique route that goes beyond the learning process. Their philosophy transforms the cuisine of the present time as well as the cuisine of the future in a specific area (place) or country. Sometimes they are the leaders of a culinary movement but often, they are alone in their search.

Despite the fact that Germany is an economic power, it rarely speaks of his young gastronomy. There are some great chefs who emerged in the last 10 years, but now is dynamic young chefs, so it is important to talk about the chef Daniel Achilles (Reinstoff). We can truly say that this young chef and his partners (Sabine Demel, Ivo Ebert) have placed their restaurant Reinstoff on the map of fine-dining in Germany and Europe.

The chef who made his internship in Germany was able to combine a solid French techniques (classic) with molecular techniques and prioritization of small regional producers (local terroir) to create a very personal and creative cuisine. Of course, the seasonal and local produce guide the creation of the menu, but from there begins a complex cuisine, a desired visual and with a harmonic balance ‘’off the beaten track’’ (hors des sentiers battus).

There are many reasons to go to the restaurant, and sometimes that’s for a unique experience, to see the work of an artist, and enjoy of the moment. No doubt the work of the chef Achilles and Reinstoff in this direction!

Q+A WITH DANIEL ACHILLES (www.reinstoff.eu ):

1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your cuisine and what is its main characteristics?

DAchilles- The philosophy behind my cuisine is the result of my occupational experience over the last ten years, it is the end product of all my professional stops. On the one hand the characteristics of my culinary style is influenced by the classical cuisine in traditional and rather rural gastronomic establishments, on the other hand it is shaped by 3-starred, avant-garde working in Gourmet Restaurants.

2-(Scoffier) Do you have a flavour or taste from your childhood that is memorable?

DAchilles- The small Saxon pancakes (made of curd and potato) or freshly baked cakes (plum or rhubarb) of my mother and grandmother.

3-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular foods (or products) that you often use in your recipes?

DAchilles- One product that accompanies me again and again since our opening is goose liver (all year). Other favourites are regional products as Teltower Rübchen and Gatower Kugeln, special strains of delicate white turnips that only grow in Brandenburg. I love to work with game
from Fürstenberg (deer, stag, shoats) and mushrooms, herbs, edible blossoms fruits and vegetables from Uckermark.

4-(Scoffier) Do you have a mentor (chefs or anybody else) that inspires you in your cuisine?

DAchilles- Probably all chefs I have ever worked for: The first time I came in touch with premium-classgastronomy was in Restaurant Stadtpfeiffer in Leipzig,the chef was Rainer Behringer and it was my first job after apprenticeship. In Gourmet Restaurant Schloss Berg in Nennig I learned how to work disciplined from three-star chef Christian Bau. The decisive point of my professional career was the working
experience as Sous-chef in Restaurant Amador in Langen for three-star chef Juan Amador, because this was best possible preparation for independence. These 3 years have given me the fine tuning for what I do today.

5-(Scoffier) Berlin is an important city but we don’t know much on his gastronomy. Can you describe the restaurant’s scene of Berlin and the progression of the gastronomy in the city?

DAchilles- We have opened our Restaurant Reinstoff in March 2009 and live in Berlin only since the end of 2007. Over the past few years a lot has happened in Berlin‘s gastronomy scene and the development is continuously going on. Berlin has currently 11 ‘’one starred’’ Restaurants und 1 two-starred Restaurant! This may not be comparable with Paris or Hong Kong but it is at least remarkable, if you consider that the German capital is only united for 20 years now. What is conspicuous is that many hotel restaurants rejuvenate and modernize, concepts change and focus rather more on the dinner service. Berlin provides a large variety of different gourmet restaurants, for example: Restaurant Margaux which is known for a special vegetable menu, Tim Raue offers Asian/Eastern cuisine and Fischers Fritz provides a classical French fish cuisine etc… One can see and feel the fast development from different sources and in the city’s streets and squares. That can only be good for the tourism, particularly when you consider that all gourmet restaurant owners in the whole German country wish to have more international guests!

6-(Scoffier) How do you develop (your inspiration) your recipes and construct your  menu
at Reinstoff?

DAchilles- We enjoy being lead by the season calendar and by the offers of our deliverers (like gardener, hunter and farmers). A walk
through market halls and weekly markets in the districts Kreuzberg or Prenzlauer Berg can be also very inspiring. It begins with the main and most important product all other components of a dish are built around it.

7-(Scoffier) I look the photography of your plate and you have a really particular  aesthetic, how do you work the presentation of your dish?

DAchilles- A particular aesthetic is always a matter of taste! Of course, I am delighted, that you personally like it. For me as a chef the aesthetic is immensely important, as I hold the following view: If something looks particularly well, it ideally also tastes like it looks. The presentation depends always on the product combination and it relates to the way a dish should be eaten. In practice it happens once in a while that a dish
is only perfectly fine-tuned and presented two weeks after implementation, though I have planned the initial food arranging already four weeks before.

8-(Scoffier) What is the importance of wine pairings in your menu? And how do you work with your sommelier Ivo Ebert?

DAchilles- To choose a suitable wine pairing for a dish our sommelier Ivo Ebert proceeds as follows: First of all the flavours of the
product combination are paramount to decide if a white or red wine basically comes into question. By selecting a specific grape variety, single taste nuances can be complemented or emphasized. To find the appropriate wine for a dish, we discuss it is basic conception. The more precisely the reason for a wine choice is communicated our guests, the more intense they feel the culinary experience. Let me give you an example: A few months ago, we served a dish called “Goose liver, mushrooms and birch water”. In general, a glass of sweet wine matches almost always to a dish with goose liver. With this vegetable combination through, the addition of birch water, our Sommelier recognized that the culinary pleasure even increased for those guests who tried a glass of pure birch water instead of sweet wine – birch water as a beverage and in order to wet the tongue with it in advance. Some dishes get only really perfect with the suitable beverage.

9-(Scoffier) Do you use some elements from molecular gastronomy or new technology  in your cooking techniques? If yes, which?

DAchilles- We work with a Julabo thermostat (Sous-vide), to cook our meat and fish as gently as possible. In other areas we are working with
different products from Texturas, Sosa and a deliverer from Hamburg (FoodConnection). Examples for these tools are xantan, alginate, agar agar, lecithin etc… For me (personally) avant-garde cooking techniques belong to a modern kitchen style.

10-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (Signature dish or other) that characterized
the cuisine of Daniel Achilles at Reinstoff?

DAchilles- Recipe: Goose Liver Herbal Biscuit and Cream

11-(Scoffier) What are your goals (ambitions) as chef or for the restaurant? Would you like to write a book, do a television show, others etc.?

DAchilles- The largest and most important ambition is that each and every guest should leave us satisfied. Furthermore we are independent business owners and we have a company to administrate, therefore I hope to hold Reinstoff on the market as long as possible. Additional awards are dependent on steadiness, on highly qualified staff and sometimes additionally on a little luck. In my view, television is a difficult subject, depending on the TV format, of course. A cookbook could be interesting in about 10 years, when I collected a certain spectrum of recipes.

RECIPE: Goose Liver Herbal Biscuit and Cream

GooseLiver/©Reinstoff

Ingredients & Progression Recipe

Goose liver ice cream

-375 ml White port wine, reduced to 200 ml

-125 ml Sauternes

-50 ml Red port wine reduction

-6 Egg yolk

-320 gr Cleaned goose liver

-30 gr Sugar

-1 tbsp Glucose

-Salt, pepper

Preparation of goose liver ice cream:

1. Heat the white port wine, Sauternes, red port wine reduction together with the sugar.

2. Stir in the egg yolks carefully.

3. Fill the mixture into a Thermomix at 80°C, mix in the goose liver and Glucose, season with salt and pepper.

4. Strain the ice mass through a fine sieve and leave to cool.

Preparation of goose liver ice cream lollipop:

1. Fill the cooled ice mass into ball shapes with the diameter of 3,5 cm. The single shapes need to have an aperture on top!

2. When all shapes are filled up, pin a wooden skewer through the apertures into the balls.

3. It is best to store all for several hours in a freezer at -21°C.

4. After turning out, the goose liver ice cream lollipops are ready.

Preparation of the lollipop coating:

-500 ml Liquid cream

-12 leaf Gelatine

-30 gr Sugar

1. Soak the leaf of gelatine in cold water, gently warm up liquid cream and sugar.

2. Now dissolve the gelatine in the cream mass, mix well, strain it through a sieve and let it
cool down.

Herbal Biscuit:

-125 gr Egg-white

-30 gr Almond semolina

-30 gr Dried and pulverized wild herbs

-25 gr Sugar

-10 gr Flour

-35 gr Egg yolk

Preparation of Herbal Biscuit:

1. Prepare a sponge cake mass out of all ingredients, place it at a cool place for one hour, fill it into an isi-bottle, use two N20 capsules and spray the foam into plastic cups.

2. Put the cups into a microwave oven and bake at 900 W circa 30-40 seconds.

3. Tear the finished sponge cake into small pieces and dry them at 60°C for 12 hours.

4. Dip the lollipops completely into the cream mass, so that a fine, thin coat adhered to them
and store them in a freezer.

Food arrangement of the lollipop:

Take the finished lollipops out of the freezer, stick them in a suitable base, put a piece of the dried herbal cookie and a marinated chickweed twig on top and serve quickly.

FURTHER INFORMATION

Reinstoff/Executive Chef Daniel Achilles

Edison Höfe Berlin Mitte

Schlegelstrasse 26c

D-10115, Berlin (Germany)

www.reinstoff.eu

PRESS/REVIEW

1. WWD magazine, June 2010

2. Bloomberg, review by Catherine Hickley, September 2010

3. Wall Street Journal, June 27th 2011

4. (Awards) Berliner Meisterköche 2011 (video)

Tous Droits Réservés. Copyright Scoffier ©2008-2011

EHolmboeBang/©Maaemo

THE NORDIC WAVES-SCANDINAVIAN CHEFS: ESBEN HOLMBOE BANG

The Nordic Waves is the term I used to describe this group of chefs from all of Scandinavia, mainly from Sweden, Denmark and Norway. These chefs known for 3-4 years at international level have particularly been at the forefront over the past two years due to the recognition of New Nordic Cuisine and the emphasis on a cuisine close to nature and the local products. All this, without relying on the status attained by the restaurant Noma and Chef René Redzepi. But beyond fashions and trends of the moment, I discovered a high concentration of young chefs, innovative, creative, open to the world and all dedicated to their garden and immediate environment.

I travel in the world with this Serie, but as you see I often return to Scandinavia! Esben Holmboe Bang is 28 years old, he is certainly one of the youngest chef of the Serie, in a country where local cuisine (terroir) is beginning to emerge, Norway!

Esben Holmboe Bang has worked with the excellent chef Jakob Mielcke (Mielcke & Hurtugkarl) and did internships in Oslo to Le Canard and Feinscmecker before opening Maaemo (Mother Earth in English) in December 2010. The restaurant is brand new but already he has received many accolades from his peers and gourmets.

The challenge of the young chef is bold! Indeed, he chose to use 100% organic products and have only a tasting menu of nine services. Knowing that Norway consumes only 1.2% of organic products and is not focused on its cuisine (terroir products), there is a pioneering work to do.

In the footsteps of the New Nordic cuisine of René Redzepi, Holmboe Bang already seems to have a unique signature, much like Magnus Nilsson (Faviken). His cuisine has an aesthetic close to nature, a great respect for the product, a menu in crescendo and creations harmonic.

This is one reason for which I write and I realize this series: to find chefs like Esben Holmboe Bang!

Q+A WITH ESBEN HOLMBOE BANG (www.maaemo.no ):

1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your cuisine and what is it main characteristics? And why only have a Tasting menu?

EBang- We want the food and setting of the restaurant to reflect the Norwegian nature and climate. The cuisine is very honest and transparent. We use only wild, organic or biodynamic produce. The goal of the tasting menu is to represent the Norwegian season at that given time.

2-(Scoffier) Do you have a flavour or taste from your childhood that is again memorable?

EBang- I have several. But the childhood taste I work with the most at the moment is the taste of clean produce. Like when you pick fresh wild berries in the wild. We don’t want to dilute the crisp flavor of Nordic produces.

3-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular foods (or products) that you often use in your recipes?

EBang- We use a lot of different type of vinegars and smoked and pickled products in the winter. In the summer, we use a variety of wild growing produces. We cook onlyby the seasons and nature.

4-(Scoffier) Do you have a mentor (chefs or anybody else) that inspires you in your cuisine?

Everybody I have ever cooked and worked with has formed the way I cook today. But at MAAEMO the cuisine is very much inspired by the Norwegian nature.

5-(Scoffier) I have read that the Norwegians have discover recently the local products (terroir), their diet was mostly international! That’s curious with the buzz of Noma and the Scandinavians trend in the world of gastronomy? Can you describe the progression of the gastronomy in the country (or at Oslo)?

EBang- A couple of years ago, the restaurant scene in Oslo was mostly Norwegian and French produce cooked with a strong French influence. The reason we started the MAAEMO project, was that we wanted to display a more personal kitchen. We wanted to create a restaurant that reflected the Norwegian country, people and nature…

6-(Scoffier) I seen the nine parts of your Summer menu, the title described solely the principal product?

EBang- We want to communicate the clean flavor of the produce. And of course we want to add an element of surprise as the meal progress.

7-(Scoffier) How do you develop (your inspiration) your recipes and construct your menu at Maaemo?

EBang- It always starts with an idea. From there, it really varies from time to time. Sometimes it can go really quick, and the idea works the first time we try it and sometimes it takes a long time. We discuss with everybody on the team. Everybody taste and everybody say what they think.

8-(Scoffier) What is the importance of wine pairings in your menu (9 dishes vs 9 wines)? How do you work with your sommelier Pontus Dahlström?

EBang- With the beverage pairings we always strive to add another dimension to the flavors palette of the dish. We try to lift the more subtle flavors and underline the crescendo in the menu. Pontus is with me every step of the way when we create a new dish. So often, when we select the pairing this as gone through the same evolution process as the dish.

9-(Scoffier) Now, Is it easy for you to find the good products locally and regularly?

EBang- I am fortunate to live in a country with amazing nature and fantastic produces. As we work solely with organic, biodynamic or wild produces, and Norway is a big country, we have sometimes a challenge with the logistic. But we put a lot of effort in finding the best possible produce. It is not hard, but of course it takes up a lot of time.

10-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (Signature dish or other) that is characterized the cuisine of Esben Holmboe Bang & Maaemo?

EBang- Recipe:  «Ost fra Eggen & Havtorn»

11-(Scoffier) What are your goals (ambitions) as chef or for your restaurant? Do you think about write a book, a television show, others?

EBang- Our goal is to refine everything we do in the restaurant. The progress of MAAEMO can never come to a stand still. This means we have to push ourselves to make everything more profound every day. We have a possible book project coming up but I don’t think we will do a cooking television show.

RECIPE: Ost Fra Eggen & Havtorn

Recipe/©Maaemo

INGREDIENTS & PROGRESSION RECIPE

Cheese

-200 g Fjellost from Eggen farm in Røros. Alternative mild blue cheese.

-10 g flour

-20 g saltet butter

-225 g milk

-210 g of birch wine

1. Melt the butter and add the flour. Add the milk and bring to a boil. And the cheese and birch wine while stirring.

Seabucktorn

-125 g water

-8 g balsamic apple vinegar

-110 g sugar

-130 g fresh seabuckthorn

1. Bring water and sugar to a boil and cool down. Add the the vinegar and the berries. Leave cold for 3 hours.

Serve with dried birch leaves. Enjoy.

FURTHER INFORMATION

Maaemo/Executive Chef Esben Holmboe Bang

Schweigaardsgate no15b

0191, Oslo (Norway)

www.maaemo.no

PRESS/REVIEW

1. Nordic Nibbler blog, June 2011

2. Maaemo Identity & Paper, Trendsnow magazine, March 2011

3. SippitySup Blog (video), Recipe of Pickled Mackerel & Ramsom, July 2011

Tous Droits Réservés. Copyright Scoffier ©2008-2011

JasonFox/©Commonwealths

THE ÉLECTRONS LIBRES TAKE -2–AMERICAN CHEF: JASON FOX

The Électrons Libres, is a group of chefs that are as individual or a leaders of a group have taken a unique route that goes beyond the learning
process. Their philosophy transforms the cuisine of the present time as well as the cuisine of the future in a specific area (place) or country. Sometimes they are the leaders of a culinary movement but often, they are alone in their search.

In the USA, San Francisco occupies a unique place in the world of gastronomy. Aside from being the birthplace of different culinary movements and the place of the ‘’locavores’’, San Francisco has seen very talented chefs emerge.

One of those chefs is Jason Fox. Not long ago Jason Fox was a executive-chef at Bar-Tartine; but, in 2010, with his partners (Xelina Leyba, Anthony Myint), he opened his own restaurant Commonwealth. Commonwealth offers a cuisine de haut niveau in a chic and relaxed environment and with a social conscience. Like Mission Street Food, the concept of the co-founder Anthony Myint, Commonwealth gives a part of his profit to a specific cause.

Jason Fox’s technique is modern and progressive. It’s a progressive American cuisine in perfect harmony with the seasons (product’s season & Market). Under its simplicity, lies a complex and researched cuisine with a strong Asian influence.

Great cuisine that reflects a great city, humble, open minded, but always searching for the best. A chef to follow for a long time!

Q+A WITH JASON FOX (www.commonwealthsf.com ):

1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your cuisine at Commonwealth and what is its main characteristics?

JFox- I think the main philosophy of my cuisine is the melding of classical and modern cuisine. I try to make it approachable and have some familiarity to it, while injecting some surprise elements, whether they are unfamiliar ingredients or techniques. Texture is very important, as well as exploring temperature contrast in the same dishes. I like to layer many pure and straightforward flavors on top of one another, so the
outcome feels deceptively simple, but still contains a great deal of complexity. I strive to make people simultaneously enjoy the simplicity of the
dish, and then scratch their heads about how certain things were put together, or how a technique was used.

2-(Scoffier) Commonwealth gives a portion of his profits to charity. Is it for a specific cause?

JFox- No, we change charities every month. We try to focus on local, food based beneficiaries, but we do not have any hard set rules. Sometimes their, are causes that are important to one of our partners, which may not necessarily be about food, or local, and we choose to donate to them.

3-(Scoffier) Do you have a flavour or taste from your childhood that is memorable?

JFox- I grew up on the east coast by the ocean, so I love very clean, fresh fish preparations. We barbecued quite a lot as well, so I find myself drawn to smoke, and even charred flavors.

4-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular foods (or products) that you often use in your recipes?

JFox- I think we use more sea urchin than most Japanese restaurants. It is definitely one of my favourite, and here in California, we get such great uni from either Santa Barbara or Fort Bragg. When available, one preparation or another is always on our menu, and we are always trying to come up with new ways to use it.

5-(Scoffier) Do you have a mentor (chefs or anybody else) that inspires you in your cuisine?

JFox-They are many, many people locally, and around the world inspire me. I love when people have a vision, and executed it. To me, one of the highest compliments I can receive is when people tell me the cuisine feels personal and focused. Locally, I think Mourad Lahlou, Dominique Crenn and James Syhabout are killing it. Around the world, I love what the Spanish chefs and Scandinavian chefs are doing.

6-(Scoffier) There are a San Francisco (and now Oakland) high-level gastronomy. Do you think that there is a Bay Area Cuisine signature?

JFox- It seems like in the last few years, many Bay Area chefs have been taking our cuisine a little further. I go to the market,
everybody is getting the same ingredients, and I think people realize it is more important, and satisfying, to simply roast a turnip, or put some cherries on a plate. Things had gotten so simple here for a while, I think many chefs are pushing the envelope more, injecting their own creativity, while still using the best ingredients and allowing the cuisine to seem organic and natural on the plate.

7-(Scoffier) How do you develop (your inspiration) your recipes and construct your menu at Commonwealth?

JFox- I work pretty closely with Ian Muntzert, the Chef de Cuisine, and we are batting ideas off of each other all day long. What is
important is the flow of the entire menu, whether it is our À la carte menu or a Tasting menu. We like our À la carte menu to read like a Tasting menu, so you can go down the length of it, and experience different tastes. Sometimes inspiration happens quickly, and sometimes we are tweaking and working on a dish for weeks.

8-(Scoffier) I see that you often use Asian products in your recipes, is an important part of your cuisine?

JFox- I am a big fan of Asian cuisine, so we are always searching for ways to inject umami. I love the clean, balanced flavors of Japanese food, as well as Southeast Asian cuisines. Also, we are lucky, in the Bay Area to have so many Asian ingredients grown locally, like citruses, herbs, and other aromatic produce which originally originated in Asia, and was not grown or available here, even a few years ago.

9-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (Signature dish or other) that characterized the cuisine of Jason Fox at Commonwealth?

JFox- I love our Shaved carrot and radish, walnut, quinoa and ash coated goat cheese dish. It incorporates the best of local ingredients, and showcases classic and modern techniques and ingredient pairings.

Recipe: Shaved Carrot and Radish, Walnut, Quinoa and Ash coated Goat cheese

10-(Scoffier) What are your goals (ambitions) as chef or for your restaurant? Would you like to write a book, do a television show, have other restaurants etc.?

JFox- My goals as chef and a restaurant owner are to continue to learn, grow and improve. What’s most exciting about this occupation is that their is no ceiling for knowledge, and until the day I die, their will always be something new for me learn about food, and as a chef. I would like to open other restaurants, because it is refreshing to change focus, and have different creative outlets for different cuisines. Whether they are high end or casual, focus on a specific cuisine or a combination of different inspirations.

RECIPE: Shaved Carrot and Radish, Walnut, Quinoa and Ash Coated Goat Cheese

RecipeSalad/©Commonwealths

INGREDIENTS & PROGRESSION RECIPE (Serves 4)

Part -1-

-1 cup peeled and diced carrot

-1 and 1/2 cup fresh carrot juice

-1 tbl evoo (Olives oil)

-Salt to taste

Part-2-
-1/4 cup red quinoa

-1/2 cup water

-Salt to taste

-1 tbl evoo

Part-3-

-1 oz walnut oil

-1 oz tapioca maltodextrin

-Salt

-1 carrot

-1 leek

-2 scallions

-Sugar to taste

Part-4-

-8 oz goat cheese

-1 bunch mixed baby carrots( thinly shaved and soaked in ice water for 10 minutes)

-1 bunch mixed radish( thinly shaved and soaked in ice water for 10 minutes)

-4 oz mixed spicy greens (cresses, arugula, mizuna, etc.)

-1 tbl picked dill

-Assorted flowers

Part-5-

-1tbl red wine vinegar

-3 tbl evoo

-Salt and pepper to taste

1. Cook carrots in carrot juice until almost all of the liquid is reduced and carrots are tender, puree with olive oil, strain through chinois and cool.

2. Cover quinoa with water and salt, bring to boil, cover, reduce to low simmer, and cook for approximately 20 minutes until quinoa is fully cooked, toss with oil and cool.

3. In processor, mix walnut oil with maltodextrin until a powder is formed, season with salt.

4. Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Cook shavings until blackened, charred and completely dry. Allow to cool, and puree until is a fine powder and season with salt and sugar. Temper goat cheese and roll into a log, approximately one inch in diameter. Cool to reharden, and then roll in ash powder. Slice 12 coins and set aside.

5. On 4 plates, smear some of the carrot puree. Toss carrots and radishes with quinoa, greens and vinegar and oil. Divide and place around carrot puree, sprinkle walnut powder on, top with goat cheese coins, dill, and assorted flowers.

FURTHER INFORMATION

Commonwealth/Executive Chef Jason Fox

2224 Mission Street,

San Francisco (USA)

www.commonwealthsf.com

PRESS/REVIEW

1. Interview SFWeekly, October 2010

2. Review by Michael Bauer, San Francisco Chronicle, November 28th 2010

3. Watermelon Gazpacho Recipe, Tasting Table, July 2010

4. How to clean squid by Jason Fox (video), CHOW, March 2011

5. Review on FoodTourist.com

Tous Droits Réservés. Copyright Scoffier ©2008-2011

ChefPaulFoster/©PFoster

THE GAME-BRITISH & SCOTTISH CHEFS: PAUL FOSTER

The Brits have been preparing for some time the after Gordon Ramsay and Marco Pierre White cuisine. Not that there is a british style but we can certainly say that the emerging chefs are pro-locavore and that they are sourcing the best products of the island of Albion. In the very cosmopolitan London, the influences of young chefs are many, which give them a unique culinary personality, but do not forget those who work in the countryside!

The rural Suffolk is the perfect place for Paul Foster to take the time to refine his cooking and develop a unique signature on the outside of London. In a short time, we can already say that he is actually doing the Tuddenham Mill (Boutique Hotel & Restaurant) a gastronomic destination in England.

Paul Foster completed his apprenticeship in famous restaurants (Le Manoir,WD-50, etc.) but it is truly as sous-chef at Sat Bains (his mentor) he learned the most and he developed his style. Foster’s cuisine is very personal, progressive and rooted in the British terroir (Suffolk country), and he is a fan of foraging. Certainly one of the best young English chefs of the moment and a perfect example of what Harold McGee said recently: ‘’Cooking is no longer national or traditional-it is now personal’’.

One of the chefs who will upsets the British cuisine in the coming years and Tuddenham Mill is (actually) in my Top -5- Fine dining in England!

Q+A WITH PAUL FOSTER (www.tuddenhammill.co.uk ):

1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your cuisine at Tuddenham Mill and what is it main characteristics?

PFoster- The food is very natural and very British. My main focus is Purity of flavour. I look at every ingredient and think how can I best
extract it’s flavour. I don’t like manipulation of food, or dishes that are overworked. Like most chefs I am inspired by the greats but I leave it at
inspiration and never follow or copy trends. I always avoided the pointless ‘spheres’ ect. Things like that should be left to the people who do it really well. It is horrible to see concepts bastardised. I am happy to say I if you asked me to show you spherification then I wouldn’t know where to start, that should be left to places like el bulli as they do it very well.

2-(Scoffier) You are in the area of Suffolk. What are the benefits of working outside of London?

PFoster- When you are off the beaten track customers have to make a journey to dine with you. A journey brings with it different experiences and emotions. We have 15 stunning bedrooms, and 12 beautiful acres of land. Ultimately we want to make Tuddenham a food destination. But it is important to us that we give the guests that bit extra.

3-(Scoffier) Do you have a flavour or taste from your childhood that is again memorable?

PFoster- I grew up in pubs and one of the most memorable when I used to help my dad out in the cellar was malt, at the time I wasn’t aware of what it was, I just knew how good it smelt. It wasn’t till I started cooking and I smelt some malt extract It took me right back to childhood. I don’t use a huge amount in my cooking but I do make a malt bread which is now just over a year old and ageing very well indeed. The aroma when it is freshly baked is outstanding.

4-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular foods (or products) that you often use in your recipes?

PFoster- I cook with the seasons so certain items I won’t have on all year. I do have sea buckthorn on nearly all year round I am a huge fan of the native berry grown by the ocean.

5-(Scoffier) I had the chance to discuss with other talented chefs from England and several chefs talk to me of chef Sat Bains like an inspiration. You worked with him, is a mentor for you? What you have learned with him?

PFoster- A huge inspiration, his voice is always in my head. I use it as a tool to keep pushing myself. From Sat, as well as cooking techniques and philosophies I learned leadership, how to motivate and inspire people, and self discipline. Self discipline is very important in many ways
it’s about knowing when to stop if a dish is ready and not over working it. It is also about questioning everything you do, asking yourself is this good enough? Does it taste amazing? And if not you have to have the bollocks and discipline to start again.

6-(Scoffier) Foraging is very popular actually, you even organize days of foraging with *Miles Irving, a pioneer and expert in England. Why is it important in your cuisine?

PFoster- Foraging is huge at the moment, and it is very important to know what you are picking and using as there are some very deadly yet innocent looking plants out there. It is something I have always had an interest in. Right from the early days of just using wild garlic, plums, cherries, mushrooms, and nettles. I always wondered what else was out there to eat. Whilst at Sat Bains, I met Miles Irving and was impressed by his knowledge and passion. We worked with each other to giving advice on how we use the ingredients. After I had settled into Tuddenham Mill I organised a foraging walk with Miles and some of our customers. It was great to go on foot with Miles, his knowledge.

7-(Scoffier) How do you develop (your inspiration) your recipes and construct your Menu at Tuddenham Mill?

PFoster- The menus are gradually evolved. When an ingredient is coming into season, I will work on how to best extract it’s flavour the ingredients are celebrated on the menu untill the season starts to close all the time, I’m considering the replacements. I never switch off, I’m thinking of new dishes all the time, on holiday, when driving, when walking home from work after a long day, when I’m foraging and also when I’m sleepin

8-(Scoffier) Do you use some elements from new technology (sous-vide etc.) in your cooking techniques? If yes, which?

PFoster- I use technology where it enhances or promotes the ingredient. I use waterbaths, paco jet, ect. but a lot of my techniques are traditional, salting, smoking, curing, most of my fish is cooked classically in a pan. There is no point using equipment for the sake of it or because it is new and a gimmick. When you have a true understanding of the ingredients you are using only then you can decide the best way to cook it.

9-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (Signature dish or other) that is characterized the cuisine of Paul Foster and Tuddenham Mill?

PFoster- Recipe:Lamb rump and shoulder, Hogweed seed, Clams, Courgette, Yoghurt

10-(Scoffier) What are your goals (ambitions) as chef or for your restaurant? Do you think about write a book, others
restaurants?

PFoster- Owning my own restaurant is a massive ambition but a good grounding here at Tuddenham Mill is essential. I want to put the
tiny village of Tuddenham on the map. It is a great opportunity to make a name for myself and to boost the reputation of the Mill. A book is way off, I wouldn’t even consider that yet but would be amazing in the future.

RECIPE:  Lamb rump and shoulder, Hogweed seed, Clams, Courgette, Yoghurt

RecipeLamb/©PaulFoster

INGREDIENT & PROGRESSION RECIPE (Serves 4)

-2 lamb rumps

-1 lamb shoulder on the bone

-1 courgette

-1 lemon juiced

-4 pink fir apple potatoes

-200g palourde clams

-Teaspoon dried and ground hogweed seeds (foraged)

-100ml natural yoghurt

-200ml reduced brown chicken stock

-200g butter

-Salt

-Sunflower oil

1. Season the lamb shoulder and roast very slowly at 120C for 5 hours,
when cooked pull the meat off the bone, re-season and mix in around 100ml of
reduced brown chicken stock. Roll in cling film and refrigerate until needed.

2. Trim up the lamb rumps cut each into two vacuum pack and cook in
water bath at 56C for 1 1/2 hours.

3. Open up the clams over heat, chill and remove from the shells,
reserve in fridge until needed.

4. Slice the courgette length ways on a mandolin, season with sea salt
and a spoon of the lemon juice, leave in fridge for 1 hour.

5. Peel the pink fir potatoes place in a bag with 50g of the butter a
pinch salt and a pinch of hogweed seeds, vacuum pack and cook for 1 hour at 90C.

6. Brown 100g of the butter in a pan add a small amount of lemon juice
and 100ml of the chicken stock, keep warm.

7. When the lamb rump is cooked remove from the bag pat it dry and sear
the fat side in a pan with a spoon of the sunflower oil.

8. Warm the clams in the brown butter dressing, slice the shoulder and warm under the grill. Carve the lamb
rump, season the pink flesh with sea salt and a good pinch of ground hogweed seed.

9. Arrange the ingredients on the plate and spoon over the warm clams. Finish
with spoons of the natural yoghurt.

FURTHER INFORMATION

-Tuddenham Mill/Chef Paul Foster

High street

Tuddenham, Nr. NewMarket

Suffolk (UK)

IP28 6SQ

www.tuddenhammill.co.uk

www.paulfosterchef.com

PRESS/REVIEW

1. Review by Jay Rayner, The Observer (The Guardian), June 5th 2011

2. Acorn Award 2011-Paul Foster

3. Skinny Bib blog (Review), July 2011

3. Restaurant Sat Bains

4. Miles Irving, Forager company (UK)

Tous Droits Réservés. Copyright Scoffier ©2008-2011