18. Torsten Schmidt, Malling + Schmidt (Arhus, Denmark)

Cher Torsten Schmidt/Photo:MallingSchmidt

THE NORDIC WAVES-SCANDINAVIAN CHEFS: TORSTEN SCHMIDT  

The Nordic Waves is the term I used to describe this group of chefs from all of Scandinavia, mainly from Sweden, Denmark and Norway. These chefs known for 3-4 years at international level have particularly been at the forefront over the past two years due to the recognition of New Nordic Cuisine and the emphasis on a cuisine close to nature and the local products. All this, without relying on the status attained by the restaurant Noma and Chef René Redzepi. But beyond fashions and trends of the moment, I discovered a high concentration of young chefs, innovative, creative, open to the world and all dedicated to their garden! To present the eight (8) chefs selected I decided to divide them into three little groups, not by country but by affinity. 

This second block of Scandinavian chefs presents two young chefs that are very original, creative and in perfect synergy with the New Nordic Cuisine Manifesto: Torsten Schmidt (Malling&Schmidt) and Gustav Otterberg (Leijontornet).  

Torsten Schmidt is born in 1976 and he studied cooking at Bremen in Germany. This anti-conformist chef is another chef who is pro-nature and pro-local product. Schmidt’s curiosity and creative force (he even makes some accessories, plates etc.) continuously break the rules to achieve a cuisine that speaks to all the senses. Whether speaking of Malling & Schmidt or of his new brasserie Nordisk Spisehus, Torsten Schmidt experiments all time and gives his fans surprises and delights. He is a true craftsman! 

  

Q+A WITH TORSTEN SCHMIDT (www.mallingschmidt.dk ): 

1-(Scoffier) How do you explain the philosophy behind your cuisine and what is it main characteristics? 

TSchmidt- I get the inspiration from the elements you are surrounded by and have a direct influence on the way you think, smell, taste and see. Add to that, my search for the scientific knowledge and innovations. That are the elements drives me in my kitchen. 

2-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular foods (or products) that you often use in your recipes? 

TSchmidt- No, not some special ingredient, it is nature & season that determines what and when food is ready to be used. But I like to use: cold press safflower oil, rapeseed oil, freshly squeeze vegetables and berry juices. 

3- (Scoffier) Do you have a mentor (chefs or anybody else) that inspires you in your cuisine? 

TSchmidt- My friends and colleagues as René Rezepi, Torsten Vildgaard, Mads Reflund are chefs I have great respect because they make a difference; they are moving boundaries or said in another way, we are not limited at the normality. 

4-(Scoffier) Do you have a particular flavour or taste from your childhood that is again memorable? 

TSchmidt- I have many since I grew up in the countryside. The smell of woodwork or the food prepared over bonfire. The smell of the forest, the sea and the hay, I could go on… 

5-(Scoffier) Recently, you opened a Brasserie, it’s the same cuisine that Malling & Schmidt or completely different cuisine? 

TSchmidt- Nordisk Spisehus is a Nordic brasserie and I think as such Malling & Schmidt is Nordic avant-garde.  

6-(Scoffier) People say that you are part of the New Nordic Cuisine manifesto initiated by Claus Meyer and René Redzepi (Noma). Are you as strict (just local products) that Rene Redzepi in your recipes? Example: no olives oil… 

TSchmidt- Yes, only commodity that can be grown in our Nature and have some culture or historical background in the Northern way of living. 

Frysestegsodmealk/Photo: MallingSchmidt

7-(Scoffier) You’re near of the nature in your presentation of the foods and you often invent the accessories, that’s exact and why? 

TSchmidt- It is because it gives me an inner satisfaction to complete a challenge from start to finish and have the opportunity to shape the challenge as it evolves, and I am in a situation where I have learned to work wood, metal, clay and others. 

8-(Scoffier) I know that the chef Pascal Barbot (L’Astrance) take a lot of time choosing and picking his produces at the market. Do you spend as much of time to choose and pick your produces? 

TSchmidt- Yes, I am out in our own organic garden about 2-3 weeks, plus I have also the wild herbs of the nature surrounding the restaurant; the forest, the beach etc. 

9-(Scoffier) Do you use some elements from molecular gastronomy or from new technology in cooking techniques? 

TSchmidt- Yes, the knowledge that can help to reinforce the expression/style selected for a given dish. But don’t show me the tool you have in your kitchen but show me what you build with it and the way. 

10-(Scoffier) What is the importance of wine pairings in your menu at Malling & Schmidt? 

TSchmidt- It’s very important because the wine is the last ingredient too entering in the dish. 

11-(Scoffier) Can you give us a detailed recipe (signature dish) that is characterized the cuisine of Torsten Schmidt? 

TSchmidt- See the recipe: Wood Shaved Oak Tree as Ice Cream With Salted Wood Shavings 

12-(Scoffier) What is your goal (ambitions) as a chef or for the restaurant? Do you think about write a book, a television show? 

TSchmidt- To create a great consciousness about the Nordic cuisine that will help to create/shape the way we eat in the Nordic country. And continue to live of my passion; cooking! 

  

RECIPE: Wood Shaved Oak Tree as Ice Cream With Salted Wood Shavings 

WoodShavedOak/Photo: Malling

One of our original dish that has been on our menu since 2005. The dish is served in a vacuum packed bag filled with fresh shaved oak tree and a glass bowl with salted wood shavings and creamy ice cream served on oak tree. Each guest must cut up the bag with a scalpel. When the bag is opened the aroma from the wood strikes you and makes you feel you are back to the woodwork classes in primary school. This creates a very special atmosphere. 

  

INGREDIENT & PROGRESSION RECIPE 

Creamy oak tree ice cream: 

-60 gr.of  fresh shaved oak tree 

-200 gr. of cream 

-300 gr. of whole milk 

-120 gr. of sugar 

-2 gr. of gelatine 

-90 gr. of yolk eggs 

1. All ingredients are mixed in a vacuum bag and put in a bain marie at 72 degrees Celsius for 48 hours. 

2. Bolt the milk and thicken it with the yolks at 72 degrees Celsius. 

3. Freeze to -20 C and run it on a Pacojet before serving. 

  

FURTHER INFORMATION:      

-Malling & Schmidt/Chef Torsten Schmidt 

Jaegergärdsgade 81, 

8000 Arhus (Denmark)   

www.mallingschmidt.dk 

www.nordiskspisehus.dk (Brasserie) 

  

-Review :     

1. Magazine Étoile, Septembre-Octobre 2009, http://www.etoilemagazine.fr/wp-content/themes/etoile/magazine/index-8.html 

  

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